Elle and I loved to go to the beach. One Saturday we made a trip to Torquay beach, southwest of Melbourne.
Torquay is a world-class surf beach. Expert surfers travel from around the world to experience the waves. It is an interesting place to have a swim.
Torquay faces on the Southern Ocean, and always has good waves. The day we were there, the waves did seem small enough for me to have a swim out a short distance from the beach.
The swim outward was great fun, swimming and having to dive into the waves when they came in. Soon I was out a short distance from the beach.
Then I swam back in.
As I swam toward the beach, a wave moved back out to sea, leaving me standing in knee-deep water. I trudged forward, when suddenly a large wave crashed over me. It lifted me off my feet, turned my body in a complete circle, laid straight out, feet over my head, then set me back down on my feet in the beach sand.
That got my serious attention. I trudged toward the beach as quickly as I could, water from the wave trying to drag me back out to sea.
The next wave crashed behind me. It pushed me forward, my hands keeping me from falling headlong, and moved me a few feet back out to sea.
Quickly on my feet, I rushed forward as another wave came in, bringing water up to my hips. I stood fast until the water level dropped, then I walked ashore.
Elle, smiling, said, “You look exhausted. It was all you could do, to get back ashore, wasn’t it?”
Indeed it was.